Posts by Sergio

    http://www.lavanguardia.com/na…-ovejas-ataque-lobos.html


    https://www.yaktrinews.com/new…olf-sheep-study/714382360


    I stumbled with the first link yesterday while browsing my FB, the second is one of the sources and it is in ENG.


    Am not sure how much money was spent in discovering that big dogs perform better against wolves than smaller ones but I'm pretty sure it wasn't necessary importing exotic european breeds to find a suitable dog for that problem. We don't have wolves in Bolivia but we used to have a huge population of bobcats and mountain lions, nowadays those are almost extinct due to expansion of man. I can remember a couple of clients who only needed dogs for guarding their stock against those felines and my old man would simply recommend two or three BIG dogs, raise them near the cattle and let their pack instinct do the rest. Of course, back in the day, purebreds were not as common as they are today but even so, importing a dog? I can name 3 breeds of the top of my head that are easily available and would get the job done: Rott, GSD (working line for the love of god ||), any mastiff (american, bull etc..) maybe even a doberman?

    Ive been using BARF for a couple of years now and my dogs seem to thrive on it, i actually made the switch from kibble to raw after reading some of the posts here. Recently we got a cat and to be honest am not a cat person LOL but the little buddy needed a home and the rest is pretty much history. Ive worked with dogs my whole life but i've never owned a cat so am a little bit curious, can you feed BARF to a cat? My 70lb doberman has no problem crushing chicken skulls and backbones but am having a hard time imagining this 10lb animal crushing anything... if anyone has some experience I would appreciate the help.


    I know this might not be the place to ask this question but am not a member of any working cat club or forum... yet;) 

    Hey Brody, long time man. Dan has a point, it doesn't take much to hurt a puppy even more when talking about large breeds, i would recommend supervising all the interactions at least until you feel the older male has gotten used to the new guy. Dan just out of curiosity, how much do you spend on RAW? I mean, 100 bucks for a bag sounds expensive. I switched to RAW when my girl was 1yr and can't complain, it's about the same price and she is healthier than ever

    HAHAHAHA that's just mean man xD I guess we all have to deal with weird requests whether you are a trainer or a breeder... I once got asked to train an aggressive dog since the owner believed it was a fit for protection. Since it was my mother's friend I agreed to evaluate the dog believing it was some mutt with aggression issues. Big surprise when I got to the house and found a freaking cocker spaniel XD I worked a couple of weeks on the aggression and explained the owner why it would never become a MAN STOPPER

    Good to know the training is going well Phil, Im a little confused about the agitation though. Who is doing the agitation and the handling? Who is doing the walks after the agitation? LOL I also left the neutral walker till the very end of the proofing phase xD I guess we all keep learning new tricks.

    Hey Phil, good story =) Good to know there are still some trainers working with Koehler. I'm not a big fan of doing OB the same day I do agitation, even less if it's right after the agitation session, keep in mind that Koehler OB is pretty demanding on the dog and it might be too much to cram both in one day. A video would be awesome if you get the chance :thumbup:

    Hew Teuto, welcome to the group =)


    What line of work are u in? Have you considered just getting a protection dog fitted for cold weather instead of creating a new one? What about a GSD? Germans used them a lot in WWII and they proved to be good in cold weather. There is also the Caucasian Ovcharka or Caucasian shepherd dog if you size is your concern. Are you gonna use the dog for protection only or will it be performing other tasks? Hunting maybe?

    Hello guys, long time no see uh>?


    Well, that's a new one for me too, I must give points for the idea xD. I agree with Dan, a dog with the proper instinct and a good training won't mind once the sleeve is replaced by real flesh. This arm shaped dildo wont do much for your program if you have already selected a decent dog. Also concerns me that the taste of rubber could be unpleasant for the pouch. I recommend sticking with the regular old hidden sleeve and a decent decoy if you want some extra "realism".


    On a side note, what happened to the forum dan>? it's totally different...

    Dafuq? Isnt that, animal cruelty? Where does this "trainers" come from? This is one of the worst videos i've seen... I hope someone reports him to the authorities -_-!


    A 12 week puppy of any working breed is STILL a puppy, there is no need to submit him to that level of stress and worst of all, it's the very OWNER who is doing the aggression... I strongly suggest you UNfollow that retard...

    K9-1 has an extensive videography on its Youtube channel and most of the time I like their videos but this was not the case. I understand where they are going with this "exercise" but it strikes me as another case of "reinventing the wheel".


    The video asks for a 2yr old dog with an established bond with the trainer. If your future PPD is already 2 yrs old, you have dedicated enough time bonding that he, at least, considers you "part of the pack" and DOESN'T go ballistic when the decoy starts pounding on you 15 feets from him... you might as well start looking for a new dog because that pouch is a lost case. I understand that the video is trying to "amp" the dog but this was clearly a bad casting. Most of the folk are gonna watch this and get the idea that their dog can become the next Rin Tin Tin if enough stress is applied to it.


    I do this kind of exercises but only to polish a confident dog with a well established bite. I understand that sometimes context can be forgotten and the result is a dog with very limited ability to make decisions under live scenarios but this is not the way to get such context. An untrained or even worse, an untested dog has no business in an "aggression simulation". Bad or at least misleading video if you ask me.


    PD: It saddens me what passes for a ppd this days :(

    Phil we have YouTube now, people don't read books anymore.


    There's a sad truth.


    Nowadays a couple of youtube vids will turn you into an expert on any matter :D


    K9 Personal Protection by Resi Gerritsen is a book i've been trying to read for a while now. Some of the new members of the club have read it and, apparently, it's a modern and effective take on the whole PPD subject. Now, if you ask me... If it aint broke dont change it. I'll always try Koehler first and only switch if I truly believe the dog will do better with a different approach and even then I'll consider first that the dog wasn't a fit candidate to begin with.


    PS: Hope you post some pics of the new pup soon Phil :thumbsup2:

    Also people who are seriously intent on doing you harm don't announce it.


    Couldn't agree more Dan


    Sorry to hear that Phil, I still maintain that a good classic breed (dobe, gsd, rott or even mali) will do the trick, the real challenge is to find a good decoy that can help you proof the dog in real life situations. Forget about those youtube vids, think about the situations you want to be ready for and work around those.


    You can't get any safer than with a loaded gun and a good dog IMO (Next to moving as Dan said)

    I agree with Pete, the vids on youtube are just bait for "likes". Most of the time they don't serve a real purpose, just like IPO it is entertainment for the layman. Also a good marketing strategy...


    While you can't recondition a PPD to perform PSD tasks, am pretty sure you could easily turn a good PSD into a decent PPD Phil.


    I would recommend getting a good dog with proven parents and siblings (if you have to teach the dog to bark at strangers or weird noises then it is NOT a good dog), reading koehler again and training the old school way ;) You won't end up with a flashy dog like the IPO or the youtube ones but it WILL DO the job and that's what matters in the end. Now about the breed... well that's a whole different debate :D


    Phil, what do you mean with "threat to my safety" ?

    I don't like the flashy OB but am glad there are still decent Pitt breeders out there, those seem to be excellent dogs.


    PS: It is truly an annoying soundtrack XD

    Wow, that is some introduction to hard surface tracking Phil :thumbsup2:


    It,s been probably 10 yrs since we trained a tracking dog for the local police. My old man had an old yellow and green koehler tracking book. Nowadays I usually do tracking as a hobby or just to keep the dog busy but it is always done on grass.


    Just to clarify, I know 3 types of tracking dogs, "find and bite" are used when in pursuit of a dangerous suspect and should always be trained with the bite as reward. Bark and hold dogs are used by rescue teams and can be trained with toys, treats and praise. Finally the dogs used for illegal materials (drugs, gunpowder, explosives, etc...) can be trained also with toys and treats.


    I do remember training on concrete but It was done without much ceremony. Once the dog was performing well on grass we gradually switched to concrete then empty streets, houses and finally live scenarios. Of course tracking is not my "forte" :D

    Hey Ryan, nice vids overall.


    First Vid:
    Too long for my liking, a big molossoid can get exhausted pretty fast, continued agitation for 3 minutes seems a little bit harsh. I tend to keep it under 2 mins tops.
    Big crown seems a little excessive too, I usually work with a max of 3 decoys when training for a civil dog, a PSD who is actually gonna do CROWD CONTROL is another story...
    The muzzle seems to inhibit the dog, he knows he isn't getting a bite and disengages quite fast... am not a big fan of the muzzle -_-! If you are gonna muzzle the dog then don't wear the bite suit?
    Yes, the dog seems a little confused but he stays confident through the whole ordeal


    Second vid:
    Big improvement with the muzzle and one decoy, he stays engaged longer
    From minute 1:30 to min 2 bites seem to be slightly superficial and he lets go quite easily but always goes for a second bite, I don't know if this is characteristic of the breed but I guess it would be effective in a real scenario even though I prefer a big and lasting bite
    At the end, semicircle of dogs with several decoys... NAH that's just dumb, work with your dog individually if possible. Add one or 2 extra dogs if you want to proof it but avoid circus like activities like those :thumbsup2:

    Those are two sides of the coin. On one hand I don't think is a good idea to force the dog onto 3 handlers while he is still training. KMODT takes a toll on the dog both physically and mentally so it should be kept as simple as possible.


    On the other hand, close family should be able to interact with the dog and at least be able to give "cease or proceed" commands like the NO or the OK. this could be left for the later stages of the training or if possible for after the training is done.


    If your fear is that the dog won't respond to them or will respond with aggression after you've started protection training, good socialization and hierarchization (those doesn't need real OB) will ensure a good response from the dog. Let the wife and kids play with the pooch when he is not trainning, let them feed the dog, let them spend time with the dog always maintaining the hierarchy.

    Hey Ryan, I spent some time in Mercedes back in the day and, if am not remembering wrong, it was HOT AS HELL -_-! So a short haired, long muzzled, not too heavy dog might be a good idea... a good dobe would fit that bill but finding one is close to impossible nowadays.