Posts by Dan

    Leather agitation and obedience training lead. Choose the "heavy duty lead" option Tac-Black Leather Classic Agitation Leads.


    The Original Ray Allen Working Dog Lead, NOW, In Black. These Classic Style Black Leather Leads are NEW to the Ray Allen selection. They are 60" long, a full 7/8" wide, and carefully riveted and lock-stitched with waxed nylon thread. Ray Allen uses only the world's finest stainless steel hardware for the most durable construction.




    Leather agitation collar. Choose the 1 1/4" option Tac-Black Leather Agitation Collars.


    Stylish, Heavy-Duty Collars, NOW In Black. These Tac-Black Leather Agitation Collars are available in three widths. The 1" wide collar comes in 18", 20", 22" and 24" lengths. The 1 1/4" and 2" wide collars are available in 20", 24" & 28" lengths.


    I have no personal experience with dogs fighting wolves.


    When your old man recommended any big dog perhaps he meant as a deterrent? It's hard for me to visualize even a strong GSD or rottweiler having the right drive set to finish off a wolf. I mean it's all about social aggression, the dog must know the wolf is a threat and that it must be destroyed. The dog understands on an instinctive level when the animal is dead, when it killed it, and that it best take the opportunity to do it now. These LGD are purpose bred for that.


    Our typical protection dogs are more about prey and fight drive. Their objective is not to kill but to continue fighting. Although one can argue it amounts to the same thing.


    Also I think it takes more that one dog to be truly effective against wolves.



    Just like a building search which I'm sure you're familiar with, a home search will take the dog a long way towards working in the house. Have the handler leave the house empty for an hour. Decoy breaks in and hides in a closet, leaving signs of entry through open door or window. Upon returning handler alerts the dog outside the house, hopefully after the dog notices the signs of a break in, gives the search command and encourages the dog to search. Let the dog search for a while, if he doesn't find the decoy the decoy can make some noise. When dog finds decoy encourage him to show aggression, then put on leash and have the decoy step out and agitate civilly. Decoy can run away without a bite, creating big frustration for the next time. You will see a rise in intensity.

    I don't keep cats. But you know they hunt and catch birds and rodents. I can't think of any reason why cats can't be fed raw; fish, chicken.. Go shoot some squirrels or pigeons with an airgun :)

    Since you asked Sergio.. IMO "high quality" or even just "quality" and "kibble" is a contradiction in terms. They just don't go together.


    Raw is much cheaper and rather than saying much better I'll just say it's actually good for the dog period. For chicken leg quarters which are normally the foundation of a raw diet, I pay $22 for a 40lb box which amounts to $0,55/lb. I also get a 5 gallon bucket of saw meat from the butcher once a week, which includes everything that passes through the saw. It's a combination of beef, pork, chicken, turkey, fish, organ meat all mixed together. I tip him $5 for each bucket. I would guess each bucket weighs 25lb. So at one leg quarter in the morning and a heap of the saw meat at night, I'm probably paying $0.70/day per dog. I can cut out the chicken when there's a lot of saw meat and it becomes practically free to feed the dog. Much less expensive still when you figure there are no health problems and consequently no veterinarian visits.

    Hi Brody. 8 years is quite young to have such problems. For what it's worth with a raw diet I expect 12 years out of mine. My oldest bitch is 8 and looks and acts the same as when she was 2.


    I don't think there are any rules about what you're trying to do, other than be watchful in the beginning. Your older male should recognize that it's a pup and not want to fight it. A correction to the pup (growl or mouth smack) here and there is to be expected. But then it doesn't take much to kill or severely hurt a small pup so until it's 4-5 months old I'd be careful.


    Glad to see you're going with a rott again.

    I regularly receive inquiries for rottweiler puppies, some of them are dumb. When I can tell the person is a novice, but is intelligent and seriously interested, I will take the time to educate them. When the questions are downright stupid I just want to drive them away. I have a real job where I deal with people in a politically correct way. I don't depend on dogs for a living, so I take care to not allow my dogs to fall into what I consider to be the wrong hands. I've been around dogs and dog people long enough to get an accurate read on people quickly. In this thread I will share some of the dumb messages I get, my responses in red.


    Good afternoon

    I’m looking for a big head male pick of the littler, that can be good with kids and trained for obedience and more. Very interested in buying and it doesn’t have to be for Christmas. Thank you for your time and you can email me for call me tomorrow. Thank you again

    Hello,

    Would you please specify in inches how big you would like the big head. We will need the following measurements:

    1. Tip of nose to occipital point.
    2. Height of stop.
    3. Circumference around jowl line.
    4. If length of teeth is of importance please provide that too.


    1 9-10 on the nose

    2 scissor bite

    Thank you



    I’m sorry we can’t accommodate you because that’s too small. Our big heads are much bigger than that. Our dogs are for buyers who want really BIG heads.


    Looking for a big head pick of the liter with,big shoulders and very trainable.. last time I send an email I was told that I was not want what you guy have…… well try me I’m will to go visit as soon as you guy are ready to sell one of your dog to some that is willly to buy one as soon as,possibly…… waiting on you thank you again and waiting to take a visit…. thank you for your time again and have a nice holiday…..

    I see. I've always left this for later as I felt I can do it at any time, it's just obedience. But it's possible that doing it at an early stage as per Koehler, in the long run will produce a deeper ingrained discrimination in the dog. Resulting in less false alerts that the handler would have to address, and a correct alert that could save the handler if he wasn't aware of a threat.

    I also fast forward when I see the dog is ready. I think Koehler structured this progam so as to give even a lesser prospect and/or an inexperience decoy the best chance to succeed. The truth is that some strong dogs just need a little stimulation to get really angry, they don't need their confidence increased or shown that they're "allowed" to bite. These dogs do benefit from suspicion building though.


    Another part that I regularly skip (though I have regrets about it) is having a neutral person walk through the training area. Mostly because I have trouble getting another person to come to the training session for just this little bit. I've seen no negative effects. But I believe that if Koehler included it in the program it must be important.

    If the handlers and trainers who's program is based on prey drive would see the intensity the Koehler method produces in a good dog, it would set them on the right track. Glad for you Phil.

    This story made me smile, thanks.


    I understand you qualified the team for protection training checking the obedience first. Not sure why you implemented obedience (sit stay) during agitation so early in the game? If the dog didn't have good potential that could be confusing to him and could affect the drive you're trying to bring out. With a really good dog though it's not a problem, but then you're skipping forward about 2 weeks of Koehler training. In any case that's the kind of dog I prefer to work with so great! Snap a pic of him with your phone if possible.

    Teuto, the conditions you described remind me that cold tolerance to a large extent is a matter of conditioning. I've kept rottweilers outdoors in a kennel in down to -15c and they do fine. They grow a thick undercoat. I've also seen pit bulls kept in these conditions and they seem to do fine. If a dog is kept indoors and is taken outdoors temporarily, that's when it may have difficulty coping with extreme cold, with the exception of breeds specifically made for the cold like the CO mentioned by Sergio. But then that's a whole different animal you'll be living with as compared to a rott.


    I don't think it's necessary to start mixing breeds to get a dog that can do what you describe, even from a purely physical traits point of view. Never mind the unpredictable temperament traits you'll end up with. That's assuming you know what you're looking for as far as the dog's temperament.


    Keep in mind you'll need to find homes for the pups you will not be keeping. This is most often easier said then done when it comes to mixed breed pups.

    Well I did not expect that, new to me. Reminds me of the fake hand they use at dog shelters to evaluate dogs for food aggression etc. Here are my thoughts. First, it's good that they created it, it's an interesting option. It will be beneficial for some dogs to experience the feel of a real bite. Dogs that are trained exclusively on a sleeve sometimes get confused on their first real bite. But.. I don't think this rubber arm can be used to increase drive in the same way real bites do. I don't think it's meant to be used consistently with one dog, maybe once or twice for proofing. I don't think it's durable enough last long.


    That said I don't think it's an essential tool. My objective when I'm training a biting dog is to create a mindset, a good bite comes naturally as an extension of this mindset in a strong dog, and I wouldn't waste my time training a dog that's not strong. In other words I want the dog angry and wanting to hurt the man. Once a dog is working like this he'll bite whatever you present him with.


    Also how are you supposed to protect your arm behind this rubber arm? If the dog takes a full hard bite the canines can reach behind it.