Posts by Brody Thorne

    Thanks for reinforcing Sergio-I plan on being home for the first 10 days with them to make sure the boundaries are in place.

    Also-there will definitely be no "free time" with the two of them hanging out unsupervised by me-even if the wife is home as she is not capable of dealing with a situation should one arise.

    I always prepare for the worst, don't even hope for the best but there is a possibility that the old male will actually like the little guy but I'm not going to hold my breath over it.

    Thanks guys.

    Thanks for the reply Dan,

    I feed this dog a super high quality kibble ($100/bag) in the am and a chicken leg quarter in the PM plus vitamins/joint formula since he was 18 months old so I am very surprised at his decline in health, which literally came out of nowhere. His lines had great age too. Both parents lived till 10+. He is very up and down. Some stretches like he is 2 and will go on a 3+ mile hike without any signs of being tired and then he'll go a week without even moving until 10am. In any event, took him to the vet in the summer and got the diagnosis because he refused to walk in the morning for about a month starting last April.

    In any event thanks again for the advice. I expect he'll grumble here and there at the pup or even snap at him but if he has a go at the little guy he'll be getting a level 5 correction on the e collar, which he'll be wearing at all times around the pup.

    Hey guys,

    Been a while as I haven't been training outside of the odd bi-annual sharpening of my old male (8 years).

    To keep a long story short my current male has dusted hips, cancer on his lower jaw, but is otherwise moderately active, alert, and with it. When he started slowing down and showing signs of discomfort in the spring I began researching breeders and litters for my next dog. I put a deposit last month on a pup that will arrive in early May.

    My question is for those who have raised male pups with strong adult males that were in the late stages of life. What are the do's and don'ts outside of leaving them alone together with no one around? I know it will be a temporary arrangement because of the condition of my current dog (he has six months left at best) but I also want to avoid a situation where I am dog run rotating until that time arrives. Even though the male is old and rusty he is still capable if provoked. He is hit and miss with other males so I am thinking a puppy shouldn't be that much of a problem but I could be totally wrong.

    Any wisdom from experience is appreciated.

    The dogs should have never been put in that place to begin with because they simply don't look like they have the genes to begin with.

    To Dan's point-a dog that looks to engage is very obvious and it's not a training issue to get a dog to this point. When you work a dog like this you know without a doubt what is going to happen in a situation like riot/crowd control. This is why again I say the clowns involved haven't a clue what they're doing right from the selection of their dogs.

    The expert interviewed nailed it.

    These clowns had no business bringing their pet JYD's to a situation like this.

    It was obvious from the start of the video they were unprofessional and disorganized.

    The first dog that the fat girl pushed into the crowd looked scared to death and instantly looked to her for protection. Soon after heading into the fuss of the crowd the dog heads the other way with its head down and tail tucked.

    I didn't see one dog dialed in on engaging people in this video.

    Another example of people getting ripped off by someone with a flashy internet site and fast talk about their "guard dogs".

    The whole situation is a mess for so many reasons politics aside.

    The more experience I get-the more I realize how rare a good dog is to come by and a good training group is that much harder.

    Good observation Phil and thanks for sharing how you approach.

    I think the handler probably knew the dog would act on any movement and he got nervous about having the dog too close.

    Maybe the dog doesn't bite the legs and the handler knew it so he gave him distance to attack appropriately. Maybe the dog has issues with people being overtop of him-I've seen this before with strong dogs.

    In any event safety of the dog has to be paramount and considered when in this situation. Dog should have been put in the down in front of the vehicle IMO.

    He he he-saw this a while ago.

    Rottweilers above all dogs give off the most unassuming disposiiton until someone does something they dont like. Eye contact, body language, even odor can piss them off. Most people that dont understand the breed lable them as unpredicatble but to me they are perfectly predicatable.

    In the breed description (rottweiler) the dog is supposed to be aloof which to me means give the dog it's distance. They are the least likely dog I will ever pet because I know this about them. It's tricky because they can give the apearance of friendly body language. Problem is that only one move that they percieve as a challenge or a threat and you end up like this guy-with permanent damage to your hand and a months worth of heavy pankillers. I wont let my guy go near anyone he and I dont know because of this-I've seen it in the past with a previous dog and wont allow him to get he and I into trouble.

    Hard lesson to learn I guess.:nono:

    That's percisely my point,

    Even though GSP is not championship ready-he could still destroy 99.9% of the poplulation in 30 seconds or less much like a dog that's been highly trained in every scenario possible who take some time off. He's not sharo or tuned in as a dog training three times/week but he is still 99.9% effective.

    Whatever the dog goes nuts for=highest risk for injury.

    Almost like their greatest strength is thier achilles hence why it's best for us to make the call on each and every situation and dial things back as a dog goes into its last 1/3 of it's life.

    Starting a new thread because Pete's questions to Chad do raise a good topic.

    I've been thinking about the whole frequency issue for a while in terms of what a PPD needs. My current dog hasnt had a serious bite since the fall and there's nothing that leads me to believe that he would perform any different regardless of if he even got another one again. With him turning 6 years old on Monday the chance of a training injury increases significantly so for me I'm weighing out the odds of doing it at all together again with him unless I know the decoy personally. I keep him in great shape still but rottweilers being rottweilers his joints prob only have one or two good years left in them-three if I am extremely lucky. None the less I consider him ready for action. Sometimes you just know your dog that well-in six years he has never been broken or shown a sign of not being nuts about engaging in every scenario he has been through so the point of more scenarios is just that and to prove nothing but what I already know.

    Reason I say this is that if George St. Pierre got in a fight today after retiring from UFC three years ago would he be any less dangerous or ready to fight someone? I think not. Guy is still in great shape and there's not any chance of him forgetting how to engage someone and lay a beating on them.

    Dogs are the same and in a way simpler as they have one method of attack (biting).

    Once a dog has been brought up and readied he/she will be that way for the rest of its life. Think a retired PSD would not bite someone if they were permitted? I wouldnt take my chances.:)

    At 6 months old it's unlikely that your pup is showing defense on any kind.

    Right now follow Dan's advice and raise your dog to be the ultimate example of her breed. When she's 12-18 months old you'll have an idea of what you have.

    A good CAO, Kangal, or mix from Eastern Europe is the way to go.

    Very stable breed around livestock and second to none when it comes to confronting a wolf or coyote.

    The other hearding breeds are great but if you want a dog that will capably engage in a fight with a wolf the Eastern Euros have the dogs for the job. They're easily 30 inches at the shoulder and weigh 150lbs+.

    There's many horse ranches near my new house slong with cattle farms with other livestock and I have seen four or five pairs of LGD's cruzing the fields sending a message with one leg up.

    Out of curiosity I checked out a couple areas after a recent snow fall and didnt see a single coyote or wolf track and my guess is that these dogs have sent a message and continue to do so.

    They're insanely serious about it-Dan is on the money.

    That's the part people wont understand. Inside theyre actually scared of a dog that will bite for real which is amazing given what Schutzhund actually means. Also, 99% of SCHIII dogs that score 100 in OB routines hae zero OB off the field. It took me four years to find a dog club that actually did sport but civil work too. They actaully have no use for a dog that isnt serious and the funny thing is many of thier dogs finish high in trial for protection and overall points. I got lucky with that crew.

    I'll help simplify it for you man.

    ANY agression shown towards a child should be immediately met with a correction that literally makes the dog think you are going to kill him. Level 10+. I dont care if people are around or even someone calls the cops. Better this than taking a child to the emergency room with half thier face torn off. All you need to do is google image dog bite kids and that should be enough for you to act with the utmost seriousness about any agression towards children.

    I had a bitch that snarled at my daughter when she was about 10 when she went near her food and I responded in kind. No issues ever again.

    If I had a dog that got corrected to that level and didnt change I'd rehome it to an appropriate place or take it hunting.

    Hope that helps.

    Thanks for sharing guys-good points to learn from.

    Drive is a funny thing Dan-I took one of my dogs about ten years ago to an off the field civil scenario and we had been doing a bunch of schitzhund jumps with the barrier three days/week for two months religiously and when we got out of the truck on an elevated parking lot (about 15 feet high) he literally just went straight for the wall and I knew by his body language he was thinking "jump the wall and I get my ball". I screamed his name just as he leaped over the barrier and prayed he was OK. Luckily the prick was alright but I was amazed how dialed in the dog was with his OB routine and the reward he got for doing it. Drive can def be the death of some dogs-literally.

    Let's hope people viewing this threat can learn to be cautious in such events.